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Back in the 1980s, when a couple of Chinese restaurants in Los Angeles were being cited for violating the state’s safety and health codes, it was a group of customers who objected strongly to the crackdown despite the fact that it was being done for the purpose of their health. Their claim – the restaurants practised a method of cooking that had been followed for more than 4,000 years and which had helped to foster a nation into one having the largest population in the world.